We’re all unique, we come in different shapes and sizes, and the fashion industry is huge with so many retailers and factories producing globally it doesn’t always follow a standard sizing block. So you may be a 14 in one store’s clothing, and a 16 in another. And then there’s European sizing. And USA sizing. And ‘vanity sizing’ used by certain retailers, but that one’s for a future blog post…
It’s confusing… and shopping for clothes can be a frustrating experience depending on where you’re buying from, but if you get to know your measurements it makes things so much easier. It will save you loads of time and effort, and also save the hassle of returns if you know these when you’re buying clothing online, or when out shopping if you take a tape measure with you.
A good start is to simply measuring your chest, your waist at the narrowest point and your hips at their widest point, making sure the tape measure is flat to your body and level. Getting a friend/loved one to assist can be helpful, especially for measuring across your shoulders, and making sure you’re standing straight and not holding your tummy in. If you have a favourite garment which fits you beautifully then it’s a good idea to lay that flat and take the measurements off this too.
We sometimes hear comments on the shop floor such as “oh I can’t wear vintage the sizing is too small”. That’s not entirely true…. On some garments especially immediately post-WWII (food rationing did not end until 1954), then this can sometimes be the case. However many vintage clothing pieces (pre 1980 especially) were hand sewn, they were made at home or altered by a boutique to a particular person’s body measurements. So if that garment fits you in all the right places then it will look like it’s been tailored just for you, and that is one of the most appealing things about buying vintage. The average UK women’s dress size is a size 16 and it has been for quite some years now, so there is a wealth of vintage clothing out there to fit everyone.
Fashion industry sizing as such has also changed over the years. For example, an original St Michael (M&S) shirt labelled a 14 will more likely fit someone size 10. Our advice is to never go off the size label on a vintage piece if there is one present - unless it gives you inch measurements on the label, but even then double check in case of laundry shrinkage.
So we take plenty of measurements before we upload a garment to our website because one person’s size 12 is another persons size 14, and often up top and down below are different sizes too.
These are the points we measure on a garment where applicable.
CHEST
WAIST
HIPS
WAIST TO HEM (IF WAIST SEAM PRESENT)
UNDER ARM TO WAIST (IF WAIST SEAM PRESENT)
UNDERARM TO HEMLINE
LENGTH BACK OF NECKLINE TO HEMLINE
SLEEVE OPENING CIRCUMFERENCE
SHOULDER TO SHOULDER
INSIDE SLEEVE
OUTSIDE SLEEVE (ON COATS & JACKETS)
RISE (ON TROUSERS)
INSEAM (ON TROUSERS)
OUTSEAM (ON TROUSERS)
ZIPPER LENGTH
Where we state ‘with ease’ this means there is some give in the garment or a little room where seams are positioned. If we clearly state ‘no ease’ then we would suggest you don’t even go there if you know it will be a tight fit anyway.
For some vintage garments your upper arm circumference is useful to know, and the width of an upper sleeve opening is often neglected on size charts. We include it. If a garment is too tight around your upper arms it will not hang properly. Plus there are worse things in life than getting stuck in a dress when trying it on, but it’s not a pleasant experience.
Should a garment take your fancy and you wish to know the seam allowance available for potential alterations we’re happy to help.
Measure yourself and shop clothing like a pro. Support your local craft/sewing supplies shop and buy a tailors tape measure if you don’t have one, they’re useful to have around and a small purchase. In Hebden Bridge we have the wonderful Word Of Mouth shop for tape measures, sewing sundries, and more craft supplies than you could shake a stick at.